Adjunct Faculty, Department of African, African American, and Diaspora Studies.

Victoria L. Rovine specializes in African art with a focus on African textiles and dress practices, and on Africa’s presence in Western visual culture, particularly in early twentieth century Europe. She received her MA and PhD from Indiana University. Prof. Rovine has conducted research in Mali since the early 1990s, and has also worked in Senegal, South Africa, Ghana, and elsewhere in Africa.

Victoria Rovine: The universality of textiles from IAH on Vimeo.

Her first book, Bogolan: Shaping Culture Through Cloth in Contemporary Mali (Smithsonian Institution Press, 2001; republished by Indiana University Press, 2008) traces the many manifestations of a distinctively Malian textile in Bamako’s fine art, tourist art, and fashion markets. Her second book, African Fashion, Global Style: Histories, Innovations, and Ideas You Can Wear (Indiana University Press, 2015) explores the innovations of African designers, the changing roles and meanings of historical dress styles in Africa, and the influences of African style on European fashion design, past and present. The book aims to expand conventional definitions of fashion design, and to bring Africa fully into the story of global fashion design. She has published widely on African fashion designers, contemporary African artists, and the representation of Africa in Europe through visual culture.

Prof. Rovine’s courses include:
–Clothing and Textiles in Africa
–Art, Culture, and Power in Africa
–Islam and African Art
–Contemporary African Art
–Art and Colonialism: France/Africa
–Survey of African Art
–Arts of West Africa Art
–Arts of Southern Africa

Before coming to UNC, Prof. Rovine taught in the Art History and African Studies programs at the University of Florida (2005-2014), and served as the curator of African and other non-Western art at the University of Iowa Museum of Art (1995-2004).


African Fashion Global Style: Histories, Innovations, and Ideas You Can Wear. Forthcoming, Indiana University Press, 2015.

Bogolan: Shaping Culture Through Cloth in Contemporary Mali. Republished with new preface, Bloomington: Indiana University Press.

Bogolan: Shaping Culture Through Cloth in Contemporary Mali. Washington DC: Smithsonian Institution Press.

Edited Journals
Guest editor, Fashion Theory. Special issue on African fashion. 13 #2 (June).

Journal Articles
Co-authored with Carlee Forbes, “First Word: Kongo Atlantic Dialogues” forthcoming, African Arts, 47 (3). In press.

“Continuity, Innovation, Fashion: Three Genres of Malian Embroidery,” African Arts, 44 (3): 14-23.

“‘An African Sensibility’: Chris Seydou’s Fashion Innovations,” Africa e Mediterraneo, special issue on African fashion. 69-70 (April): 15-21.

“First Word: FIMA and the Future of African Fashion,” African Arts, 43 (2): 1, 4-7.

“Un Podium sur les Bords du Niger: Le FIMA et l’avenir de la mode africaine,”also published in English, “Runways in the Desert: FIMA and the Future of African Fashion,” Africultures, published online, 2/27/10.

“L’Afrique est à la Mode: Un concours-tremplin pour la mode africaine,” Africultures, published online, 2/27/10.

“Colonialism’s Clothing: Africa, France, and the Deployment of Fashion,” Design Issues, 25 (3): 44-61.

Book and Catalogue Chapters
“Africa = recycling: Continuities and Discontinuities in the Reception of Contemporary African Art,” in Indigenous Contemporary: Negotiating intercultural differences. Edited by Ian McLean. Pp. 116-124. Newcastle upon Tyne, UK: Cambridge Scholars Publishing. In press.

“Textiles et Croyances: les tissus africains et les practiques religieux,” in La Culture et la Religion en Afrique: perspectivespluridisciplinaires. Edited by Issiaka Latoundji Lalèyê. Dakar, Senegal: Conseil pour le développement de la recherche en sciences sociales en Afrique. Submitted and accepted.
Also published in English: “Woven Beliefs: Textiles and Religious Practice in Africa,” in The Wiley-Blackwell Companion to Material Religion. Eds. Manuel Vasquez and Vasudha Narayanan. West Sussex, UK: John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. Submitted and accepted.

“Fashion, Youth, and Travel: Embroidered Representations of Modernity in Mali,” in African Dress Encounters: Fashion, Agency, Power. Edited by Karen Tranberg Hansen and D. Soyini Madison. pp. 124-137. London: Berg Press.

“African Fashion from Dual Directions: Representing Self and Other,” in Fashion-Wise. Edited by Maria Vacarella with Jacque Lynn Foltyn. pp. 259-266. Oxford, UK: Inter-Disciplinary Press, 2013.

“De Poiret à Gaultier: Images de l’Afrique à travers la mode,” in Images Changeantes de l’Inde et de l’Afrique. Edited by Geetha Ganapathy-Doré and Michel Olinga. pp. 21-31. Paris: Harmattan.

“West African Embroidery: History, Continuity, and Innovation,” in Africa Interweave: Textile Diasporas. Ed. S. Cooksey. pp. 56-64. Gainesville, FL: Harn Museum of Art.

“African Fashion: Design, Identity, and History,” in Contemporary African Fashion. Edited by Suzanne Gott and Kristyne Loughran Bini. pp. 88-103. Bloomington, Indiana: Indiana University Press.

“Africa in Iowa: The Stanley Collection at the University of Iowa Museum of Art,” in Representing Africa in American Museums.  Edited by Christa Clarke and Kathleen Bickford Berzock. pp. 336-362. Seattle, Washington: University of Washington Press.

“Africas on the Runway: The View from Obama America” in Nine Takes: Voices and Images from Ten Years of South African Fashion Week. Edited by Anthony Tischhauser. pp. 84-87. Johannesburg, SouthAfrica: Channel F. Publishing. Also published in the Mail and Guardian (South Africa’s major English-language newspaper), April 3, 2009.

Encyclopedia Entries and Other Publications
“African Artists–Modern Movements” Grove Art Online. New York: Oxford University Press.

“Fashion in African Dress” and “African Fashion Designers” Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Editor in Chief Joanne B. Eicher. London: Berg Press. pp. 62-74

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