Professor, African Art History
Adjunct Faculty, Department of African, African American, and Diaspora Studies.
Victoria L. Rovine specializes in African art with a focus on African textiles and dress practices, and on Africa’s presence in Western visual culture, particularly in early twentieth century Europe. She received her MA and PhD from Indiana University. Prof. Rovine has conducted research in Mali since the early 1990s, and has also worked in Senegal, South Africa, Ghana, and elsewhere in Africa.
Her first book, Bogolan: Shaping Culture Through Cloth in Contemporary Mali (Smithsonian Institution Press, 2001; republished by Indiana University Press, 2008) traces the many manifestations of a distinctively Malian textile in Bamako’s fine art, tourist art, and fashion markets. Her second book, African Fashion, Global Style: Histories, Innovations, and Ideas You Can Wear (Indiana University Press, 2015) explores the innovations of African designers, the changing roles and meanings of historical dress styles in Africa, and the influences of African style on European fashion design, past and present. The book aims to expand conventional definitions of fashion design, and to bring Africa fully into the story of global fashion design. She has published widely on African fashion designers, contemporary African artists, and the representation of Africa in Europe through visual culture.
Prof. Rovine’s courses include:
–Clothing and Textiles in Africa
–Art, Culture, and Power in Africa
–Islam and African Art
–Contemporary African Art
–Art and Colonialism: France/Africa
–Survey of African Art
–Arts of West Africa Art
–Arts of Southern Africa
Before coming to UNC, Prof. Rovine taught in the Art History and African Studies programs at the University of Florida (2005-2014), and served as the curator of African and other non-Western art at the University of Iowa Museum of Art (1995-2004).
African Fashion Global Style: Histories, Innovations, and Ideas You Can Wear. Bloomington: Indiana University Press, 2015.
Honorable Mention, Arnold Rubin Outstanding Publication Award, Arts Council of the African Studies Association, 2017.
Bogolan: Shaping Culture Through Cloth in Contemporary Mali. Republished with new preface, Bloomington: Indiana University Press.
Bogolan: Shaping Culture Through Cloth in Contemporary Mali. Washington DC: Smithsonian Institution Press.
Honorable Mention, Arnold Rubin Outstanding Publication Award, Arts Council of the African Studies Association, 2004
Guest editor, Fashion Theory. Special issue on African fashion. 13 #2 (June).
“Adornment, Dress, and African Arts of the Body.” In Oxford Bibliographies in Art History. Ed. Thomas DaCosta Kaufmann. New York: Oxford University Press.
Co-authored with Lisa Homann and Carol Magee, “Future Thinking: Propositions and Possibilities for African Art History,” African Arts 50 #4: 1-2, 5.
“Style Migrations: South-South Networks of African Fashion,” ARTL@S Bulletin 5 #2: 33-42.
“STEAMed Up (or, A Defense of the Humanities through African Art History)” African Arts 49 #4: 1, 4.
Co-authored with Carlee Forbes, “First Word: Kongo Atlantic Dialogues” forthcoming, African Arts, 47 (3). In press.
“Continuity, Innovation, Fashion: Three Genres of Malian Embroidery,” African Arts, 44 (3): 14-23.
Book and Catalogue Chapters
“Local/Global Design: African Fashion,” in A Companion to Contemporary Design Since 1945. Edited by Anne Massey. West Sussex, UK: Wiley Blackwell, 2017. Accepted.
“Arrayed in Splendor: The View from Africa,” in Arrayed in Splendor: Art, Fashion, and Textiles in Early Modern Europe. Edited by Christoph Brachmann. Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 2017. Accepted.
“Cloth, Clothing, and Colonial Power: France and West Africa at the Expositions,” in Visual Typologies from the Early Modern to the Contemporary: Local Contexts and Global Practices. Edited by Tara Zanardi and Lynda Klich. Burlington, VT: Ashgate, 2017. Accepted.
“Woven Beliefs: Textiles and Religious Practice in Africa,” in The Wiley Blackwell Companion to Material Religion. Eds. Manuel Vasquez and Vasudha Narayanan. West Sussex, UK: Wiley Blackwell. Accepted.
“Woven, Stitched, Dyed, and Unconventional: Newark’s African Textile Collection,” in Arts of Global Africa: The Newark Museum Collection. (Newark: The Newark Museum): 106-115.
“Networks of Threads: Africa, Textiles, and Routes of Exchange,” in Global Africa: Into the Twenty-First Century. Edited by Dorothy L. Hodgson and Judith Byfield. Berkeley: University of California Press, 2016: 170-182.
“Afterword: Cloth, Dress, and Drama,” in African Print Fashion Now! A Story of Taste, Globalization, and Style. Eds. Suzanne Gott, Kristyne S. Loughran, Betsy D. Quick, Leslie W. Rabine. Los Angeles: Fowler Museum at UCLA. pp. 275-279.
“History, Art, and Plastic Bags: Viewing South Africa through Fashion,” in Modern Fashion Traditions. Edited by Angela Jansen and Jennifer Craik. pp. 165-183. London: Bloomsbury Press, 2016: 165-184.
“Textiles et Croyances: les tissus africains et les practiques religieux,” in La Culture et la Religion en Afrique: perspectives pluridisciplinaires. Edited by Issiaka Latoundji Lalèyê. pp. 51-64. Dakar, Senegal: Conseil pour le développement de la recherche en sciences sociales en Afrique.
“Africa = recycling: Continuities and Discontinuities in the Reception of Contemporary African Art,” in Indigenous Contemporary: Negotiating intercultural differences. Edited by Ian McLean. Pp. 116-124. Newcastle upon Tyne, UK: Cambridge Scholars Publishing. In press.
“Textiles et Croyances: les tissus africains et les practiques religieux,” in La Culture et la Religion en Afrique: perspectivespluridisciplinaires. Edited by Issiaka Latoundji Lalèyê. Dakar, Senegal: Conseil pour le développement de la recherche en sciences sociales en Afrique. Submitted and accepted.
Also published in English: “Woven Beliefs: Textiles and Religious Practice in Africa,” in The Wiley-Blackwell Companion to Material Religion. Eds. Manuel Vasquez and Vasudha Narayanan. West Sussex, UK: John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. Submitted and accepted.
“Fashion, Youth, and Travel: Embroidered Representations of Modernity in Mali,” in African Dress Encounters: Fashion, Agency, Power. Edited by Karen Tranberg Hansen and D. Soyini Madison. pp. 124-137. London: Berg Press.
“African Fashion from Dual Directions: Representing Self and Other,” in Fashion-Wise. Edited by Maria Vacarella with Jacque Lynn Foltyn. pp. 259-266. Oxford, UK: Inter-Disciplinary Press, 2013.
“De Poiret à Gaultier: Images de l’Afrique à travers la mode,” in Images Changeantes de l’Inde et de l’Afrique. Edited by Geetha Ganapathy-Doré and Michel Olinga. pp. 21-31. Paris: Harmattan.
“West African Embroidery: History, Continuity, and Innovation,” in Africa Interweave: Textile Diasporas. Ed. S. Cooksey. pp. 56-64. Gainesville, FL: Harn Museum of Art.
“African Fashion: Design, Identity, and History,” in Contemporary African Fashion. Edited by Suzanne Gott and Kristyne Loughran Bini. pp. 88-103. Bloomington, Indiana: Indiana University Press.
“Africa in Iowa: The Stanley Collection at the University of Iowa Museum of Art,” in Representing Africa in American Museums. Edited by Christa Clarke and Kathleen Bickford Berzock. pp. 336-362. Seattle, Washington: University of Washington Press.
Encyclopedia Entries and Other Publications
“African Artists–Modern Movements” Grove Art Online. New York: Oxford University Press.
“Fashion in African Dress” and “African Fashion Designers” Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Editor in Chief Joanne B. Eicher. London: Berg Press. pp. 62-74